Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise
Improvised Style
Tent (Bivouac) Friendly
I couldn’t find a tent-friendly multi-day itinerary for this national park anywhere, so I went ahead and made my own.
Introduction
So, you want to backpack in the Parc National de la Vanoise, the oldest national park in France, transforming across the border into the Italian Gran Paradiso? You’ve got your boots, your pack, and… Oh, wait. You prefer staying in a tent to booking dorms in refuges, or you’re planning at the last moment, and bivouac is strictly regulated! It’s only allowed near some refuges in the park! You may have heard about the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the best-known multi-day trek in this area, but every variation of this route ends a stage at Refuge du Col de la Vanoise, a mountain hut that DOES NOT permit the use of a tent. Additionally, the Refuge de l’Arpont, another integral stop, is often fully booked. What if I told you I could provide you with a route circuiting the primary glacial mass that is entirely tent-friendly and can skip the potentially problematic l’Arpont? It’s unlikely you’re surprised because you can see that in the header, but let’s get into it!
I ran the trip in terms of planning and calling refuges while on the trail because this was done VERY last minute. We were planning to do the Walker’s Haute Route (which starts in Chamonix but crosses into Switzerland where the rest of the trek unfolds that same day), but a few days before our trip, Switzerland imposed a 14-day quarantine on residents of Luxembourg, rendering it impossible. Therefore, instead of wasting the opportunity, I decided to launch us into the Parc National de la Vanoise for a little exploration.
Important
As mentioned in the intro, the use of a tent as accommodation is strictly regulated in this national park. Bivouac, setting up a tent after and packing it up before designated times, is permitted next to SOME, not all, refuges. The relevant pages (10-13) of a guide detailing refuges in the park can be found here. The tent icon below the number of the refuge on page 12 indicates bivouac permission.
When I first started doing multi-day treks in Europe, I was shocked by what is considered to be the “standard” of hopping from refuge to refuge, staffed shelters offering meals, dorm accommodation (for some trail-goers, not all), and SHOWERS during high season.
This is quite different from what I had experienced before on the North American continent. No, you won’t quite get the same sense of solitude in this area as you would elsewhere, but it is still more than worth it to explore.
Communication and Maps
Because Parc National de la Vanoise is located in France, a basic understanding of French proves itself to be quite useful. However, due to the nature of the area, most refuges accommodate English and are relatively friendly about it. I did not have cell reception or data in many sections. All of the refuges I asked to use the satellite phone from to call the next refuge were happy to let me do so, don’t be afraid to ask! The map I used was the IGN 3534 OT. This map is extremely detailed, but a section between the Col de la Vanoise and Refuge de l’Arpont/Le Mont is not shown. This was not an issue for us, as the directions we were given by guardians were well laid-out and the route was otherwise well-signed in this area.
Overview
This is a moderate level multi-day route adapted for those wishing to get a taste of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise over 4 or 5 days with the possibility of staying in their tent each night. All refuges can be booked ahead, provide dorm accommodation, and half-pension (dinner and breakfast). Packed lunches can also be requested for €9-11, if desired.
I have set this out with a couple of variations, and if you want to get a reasonable start on the first day, you can combine days 1 and 2 instead of starting late and ambling your way to Fond d’Aussois in order to spend your first night in the mountains.
Snapshot Tables
| Real | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ascent (m) | 401 | 811 | 652 | 386 | 1291 | 3541 |
| Descent (m) | 11 | 1473 | 833 | 218 | 1683 | 4182 |
| Distance (km) | 5.6 | 14.7 | 17.2 | 7.3 | 23.7 | 68.5 |
| Time (h) | 1.5 | 7 | 6 | 2 | 9 | 25.5 |
| Shortest | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ascent (m) | 401 | 571 | 652 | 622 | 702 | 2948 |
| Descent (m) | 11 | 1196 | 833 | 529 | 974 | 3543 |
| Distance (km) | 5.6 | 11.8 | 17.2 | 11.9 | 18.3 | 64.8 |
| Time (h) | 1.5 | 5 | 6 | 5 | 6 | 23.5 |
| Longest | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ascent (m) | 401 | 811 | 1147 | 386 | 1291 | 4036 |
| Descent (m) | 11 | 1473 | 731 | 218 | 1683 | 4080 |
| Distance (km) | 5.6 | 14.7 | 18.1 | 7.3 | 23.7 | 69.4 |
| Time (h) | 1.5 | 7 | 9 | 2 | 9 | 28.5 |
Day 1
Plan d’Amont (1949m) to Refuge Fond d’Aussois (2350m)
Ascent: 401m
Descent: 11m
Distance: 5.6km
Estimated time: 1h30
This is a non-stage, you could refer to it as a “tiny warm-up” or “extension of the parking lot”, as my father did. If you’re anything like me, start this one pretty late in the day to avoid feeling unfulfilled. The first two-thirds of this section is a dirt road frequented by dayhikers. If you are able to get an early start, add this on to the second day and do Version 1. I enjoyed my time relaxing at Fond d’Aussois, but because the day had been so undemanding physically, I lacked the appetite to relish the 5-course (soup, main, salad, cheese, and dessert) dinner served. Speaking as a vegetarian, this was the best fare we encountered,
So… Fluffy! 
Day 2
Refuge Fond d’Aussois (2350m) to Refuge le Repoju* (1720m)
Version 1
Ascent: 570m
Descent: 1,196m
Distance: 11.8km
Estimated time: 4-5h
Version 2 (via Traverse des Prioux)
Ascent: 811m
Descent: 1,437m
Distance: 14.7km
Estimated time: 6-7h
This is a fun stage that takes you up and over the Col d’Aussois (2916m) with some absolutely magnificent views. Start from the Refuge Fond d’Aussois and head towards the end of the valley to begin your 566m ascent to the pass. As you climb, you may pass some cows, a common sight in European mountains. Plan d’Amont, your starting point, will reveal itself as you climb. Be sure to turn around and take in the view along the way.
Why, hello there! 
Plan d’Amont below 
At the pass
Once you reach the pass, head to the right. The trail is quite clear and marked with cairns, and you should see a yellow sign pointing down into the valley on the other side. Here there is a trail leading up to the Pointe de l’Observatoire (3015m). If you have the energy (and trust people enough), leave your pack somewhere along the ridge and scale the 99m for an absolutely stunning panoramic view. The area at the top is small, so be willing to wait your turn if others are up there. This is your one chance on this route to break 3000m, so go for it!
Now comes the difficult part: at least 1,196m of elevation loss. You can see where you’re going from the pass, but of course, that doesn’t mean it’s close. Follow the trail down through boulder fields and into a pasture-type area. There was a herd of cattle grazing here when we passed through as well. This is where you will find the sign that separates Version 1 of this day from Version 2.
Versions 1 and 2 split here 
Version 1
This is the shorter route with no further elevation gain or additional descent. Follow the path straight from the sign down into the valley. L’Alpage de Ritort waits for you at the bottom, where you can stop and find out how a local specialty, Beaufort cheese, is made. According to one of the guardians at Refuge Fond d’Aussois, it is possible to ask the farmers here for permission to bivouac. Otherwise, continue down the valley to Refuge le Repoju (1720m).
Version 2
More physically demanding but beautiful, this route follows the side of the mountain through the Cirque du Génépy, allowing you to stay at a higher elevation for longer before descending into the valley next to Refuge du Roc de la Pêche. This refuge is 45 minutes down the road (which doubles as the GR 55) from L’Alpage de Ritort and 30 minutes up the road from Refuge le Repoju (1720m) and is a great place to grab some drinks (and maybe a snack) before the final push.
If you would like to continue a little further during this stage or there is no tent space at Refuge le Repoju (contact ahead of time here), continue for an hour along the GR 55 (4.1 km, 81m ascent, 367m descent) into the town of Pralognan-la-Vanoise where you will find a full-blown campground and shave this section off your next day.
Day 3
Refuge Repoju (1720m) to Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux (2120m)
With téléphérique (cable car) to get to Mont Bochor from Pralognan (1409-2010m)
Ascent: 652m
Descent: 833m
Distance: 17.2km
Estimated time: 5-6h
Without téléphérique
Ascent: 1,147m
Descent: 731m
Distance: 18.1km
Estimated time: 8-9h
Begin by following the GR 55 from Refuge le Repoju the hamlet of Prioux to Pralognan-La-Vanoise (1400m). Upon reaching the campground, you have a decision to make: would you like to get a head start on the day’s elevation via cable car (€ 10.20/person), or would you rather climb the entire way yourself? Unless you have a penchant for switchbacks through trees, I’d recommend the former option. You still have many hours of hiking and a hefty climb ahead of you, but far more time to relax and enjoy the experience of one of the prettiest stages on this tour. The schedule for the gondola can be found here.
With téléphérique
Head into the town from the campground and locate the base of the cable car (if needed, this can be found using Google Maps with a search for “Cable car to Mount Bochor“).
From the top of the lift, head towards the restaurant and follow signs towards the Refuge des Barmettes (2010m). If you are confused, Google Maps can help to guide you, reception is decent in the Pralognan area. The trail begins by descending and traverses the side of the mountain. Follow the trail until you reach the Refuge des Barmettes, where the way to Col de la Vanoise is clearly signed.
Without téléphérique
All you need to do differently here is get from Pralognan up to Refuge des Barmettes on foot. Start from the campground and use Google Maps to guide you if you do not have the (highly recommended) IGN map or you are unsure of which path to take.
Both options
This is another heavily used section of the GR 55 with many dayhikers going to the Lac des Vaches (Cow Lake) or the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise (2518m) for lunch. I recommend stopping here at the pinnacle of the day’s elevation profile to refresh yourself with a hot or cold beverage if it is within your budget (personally, I run on coffee from refuges when hiking in Europe… Leave me and my caffeine alone!)
After your stopoff at the top, surrounded by mountain peaks and alpine lakes, it’s time to make your way onward to the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux (2120m). You’ll pass through the saddle, gawking at two more lakes as you go. Depending on the time of your visit, part of this section may be completely sodden with runoff (I was certainly grateful for my waterproof boots here).
No, it’s not illuminati confirmed, it’s just a monument
Descend out of the saddle past the remnants of a bunker and a pyramid-shaped monument. We saw three chamois in this small section, and it would be a crime to not include a photo of one of them here.
From the pyramid monument, you will be able to see a sign. This is where you will begin the knee-crunching descent to the visible Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux. You can see it, and the sign says it’s 45 minutes away, but depending on the length of day you’ve had and how you respond to downhill, you’ll be glad to get there.
Day 4
Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux (2120m) to Refuge du Lac Blanc (2352m) or Refuge de l’Arpont (2309m)
Refuge du Lac Blanc (this stage is super easy but produces a long last day)
Ascent: 386m
Descent: 218m
Distance: 7.3km
Estimated time: 2h
Refuge de l’Arpont (almost always fully booked)
Ascent: 622m
Descent: 529m
Distance: 11.9km
Estimated time: 4-5h
This, my friend, is where our paths divide too sharply for me to comment until they rejoin at Le Mont on the last day if you happen to be headed to the Refuge de l’Arpont. Choosing this route gives you far more evenly divided stages and, presumably, a more enjoyable last stage. This being said, the Refuge du Lac Blanc is quite beautiful, often less busy, and the guardians will be more than happy to give you dayhiking suggestions if desired. However, I would recommend resting, as you have quite a day of elevation coming tomorrow with this route. Refuge de l’Arpont is visible directly on the other side of a deep valley from Refuge du Lac Blanc, which means you will have to descend to the bottom and climb up the other side further on to continue. Choose wisely, or based on necessity, if you must.
Refuge du Lac Blanc
Follow signs from the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux and climb towards the Refuge du Plan du Lac (2385m). Continue straight through the plain after passing the refuge until you reach a parking lot. Here, you will find a sign that points vaguely towards the Refuge du Lac Blanc. Facing the parking lot from the trail, turn left and walk through the parking lot until you see an unsealed road leading off to the right. This will take you to the Refuge du Lac Blanc (2352m).
Refuge de l’Arpont
Okay, okay, I won’t leave you completely on your own. If you choose this route, head for the GR 5 (when in doubt, ask the guardians at Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux). This trail will take you back up the same side of the valley you came down yesterday further along in order to get you back up to the Refuge de l’Arpont (2309m).
Day 5
Return to Plan d’Amont
Refuge du Lac Blanc (2352m) to Plan d’Amont (1949m)
Ascent: 1,291m
Descent: 1,683m
Distance: 23.7km
Estimated time: 8-9h
Refuge de l’Arpont (2309m) to Plan d’Amont (1942m)
Ascent: 702m
Descent: 974m
Distance: 18.3km
Estimated time: 5-6h
Starting from Refuge du Lac Blanc
Your best bet here is to ask the guardian how to get to Le Mont to finish the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise at Plan d’Amont and have him show you on the map. The route involves descending over a kilometre, joining the Via Alpina until you reach the Pont du Châtelard before Termignon, then climbing the 743m to rejoin the GR 5 at Le Mont.
Starting from Refuge de l’Arpont
Follow the GR 5.
Both Routes
Once you reach the rendezvous point of Le Mont… You still have a lot of climbing left to do. There’s a fair amount of up and down left to do before your final descent. You’ll traverse several mountain cirques to work your way around Dent Parrachée before arriving at Plan d’Amont. Don’t try to fool yourself into thinking it’s just around the next bend or over the next ridge, it isn’t until you see the chairlifts. That is your final ridge. From here, follow the signs to the Barrages, and you’ve done it! Congratulations!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this itinerary for the Parc National de la Vanoise! If you have, leave a comment and/or subscribe to my mailing list to be notified when I create more content!
